Day 22 Hue to Loc Vinh








 Some days are about the landscape others about the journey but today was about the people. With a relatively easy day ahead and the sun trying to shine, we navigated out of Hue- the traffic almost as outrageous as Hanoi, we left with a degree of optimism, having enjoyed our short break in the city.

Another busy road with lots of trucks but in our favour was a good surface and the wind at our backs. We made rapid progress and were on a roll, Jen was the first to give in and request a drink stop, we'd done over twenty miles in just under two hours. I took the request literally and pulled up at the very next watering hole. It looked rough and the three women sat waiting looked intimidating - we asked for just drinks and they said no only food, all communicated through gestures. They kept asking the same question of me, which I did not understand, so out came the phone and the Google translate. They were asking me my age, to which I typed 21, there was a slight smile on their lips, I then typed my real age and they sniggered a little. One of the ladies then typed she was 59 to which I replied that she was young enough to marry me- this they found very amusing and laugh out loud giggles ensued. Meanwhile one of the miscreants, emboldened  by the bon homie decided to put on my helmet- to even more hilarity. Then we were in and a hot drink was provided for us and we continued to enjoy their company.

Back on the road again and more main highway before eventually turning off the drudgery of long straight busy roads. Next to the sea on quieter more tranquil settings one finds the stress of the road sink away. The lovely boats moored next to the shore added to the peace and ambience. This haven was short lived as we soon rejoined the highway and our satnav indicated a very steep climb, we followed the road anticipating the pain by dropping down our gears. It turned out Komoot (our navigation system) was wrong, there was now a tunnel and at the entrance to the tunnel was a grim faced, unsmiling policeman who barred our way and told us to turn back. The tunnel was tight and there were signs saying no bicycles but there was also a walkway which we could use. When asked he said no, but then relented and with a face like he'd swallowed a fly he waved us on insisting we push and walk. The pathway was fine but we had to push our bikes up steep steps and down the other side. This policeman was the antithesis of the ladies we previously enjoyed the company of. No sense of humour and an inner ego that felt the need to exert his authority in an officious way. On the plus side he let us through and we saved ourselves the grim prospect of riding over the hill.

Soon we were near our destination and eventually rode through a very run down town and area. The hotel was out of the town and we had to wake the young boy from his slumbers as the place appeared deserted. The alcoholic fumes soon disapated and he spoke reasonable English. There was no food at the place and the nearest restaurants were in the town we'd just ridden through. Found a very basic cafe and the best she could do for the awkward vegetarians was a few leaves and a plate of noodles. We gobbled them up and paid our bill of £1.30. Then a quick ride to find the bakers for cake and biscuits and back to our dreary hotel. 
So the garrulous ladies, the humourless man and the hungover boy made this day one to remember- hopefully this geriatric will still remember this day tomorrow morning!

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