Day 30 Quang Ngai to Ba to

 An earlyish start at 8am and Komoot got us out of the city and into tranquil country roads and tracks pronto. The scenery of the past four weeks behind us as we went into lush green vegetation and thankfully a little shade. Still very flat initially and a joy to take in the little farming communities and their more manicured paddy fields . The people seemed more reserved and more cautious towards these passing strangers. We encountered five climbs today which is the most we’ve faced in one day but they were nothing compared to Hai Van pass. However they felt uncomfortable because we are now experiencing temperatures of 29 degrees and 90- 95 per cent humidity! 

Jen still races up them like they are not there and I grumble along at my own pace. I’m sure I’m defying the laws of physics pushing my lard arse up these hills.

Although it was only a 31 mile day it felt much harder, especially towards the end when the sun rays were bouncing off the tarmac. We’d both bought head gear in Hoi An, which are great for walking in but on the bike there is nothing to stop the sweat dripping off one’s forehead- so the bike helmet is the de facto headgear for our rides.

On route we managed to stop and eat  7 delicious savoury pancakes cooked over an open fire. They looked veggie but hidden inside were little smatterings of meat- these we managed to extricate easily. Having arrived at our hotel(home stay), washed our clothes(a daily ritual) and for me a much needed snooze. By 5:30 we were both starving and went looking for somewhere to eat, three street stalls waved us away from what looked like more of their delicious pancakes. I think it may have been a communication issue as we’d certainly showered and put on our cleanest dirty clothes, actually our clothes were perfectly clean but at times we do feel that they could really do with a proper wash.

Eventually we found a cafe that served food, that is until we told them we were vegetarian. The proprietor again said no but with the help of dear old Google translate we negotiated some eggs and noodles- which were delicious. No beer on sale so I settled for a Pepsi, it was served in a glass with plenty of ice and a straw. While sipping from the glass I felt like Wimpy from the Popeye cartoon- the one with the never ending burger in his hand. As I drank the glass did not empty- again was I confounding the laws of physics, no merely that the ice was melting at the same rate as my consumption. It finished up being a very watery cola.

Still not satiated we found a baker selling donuts and a shop selling our favourite Marie biscuits. Back to the hotel to devour and all done and dusted by 6:30.

Big day tomorrow up the mountains and 50 miles, so hopefully on the road by 6am to try and beat the incessant heat of the day.